Napoli & Pompeii

"Don't get lost in Napoli".

This is what our tour guide Vittorio said numerous times throughout our 45 minute walking tour of Napoli today.  He didn't need to tell anyone twice.  I can describe Napoli with one word:  Slum.  It's not a place I'd wanted to visit having already heard what it was like, but it was part of the tour and worth enduring for our ultimate destination.

I did have to count my fingers before getting back on the bus.

Mt Vesuvius

Pompeii is magnificent.  This was one of the parts of my trip I was most looking forward to, and was more than happy to sacrifice one of my few days in Rome to see it. 

Small digression - Rome has been a disappointment.  I think this is down to three main reasons.  Firstly, I went to France first, and cities like Paris and Nice, whilst not being comparable with Rome in any way, really did set the standard high as far as being clean, open and tourist friendly cities.  Rome is none of these things, purely by the nature of its age, and therefore layout.

Secondly, my hotel hasn't been great - the past two nights some idiots in the room next to me first decided it was a good idea at 4am to put some music on and sing along at the top of their voices, and 2am this morning Skyping (I assume) - I could clearly hear the person on the other end.  I've been told they left today - at least, I think that's what the night man on reception said, because he only speaks Italian.  Also, the water in the shower and sink has two temperatures - freezing cold or scalding hot.  You can't choose which option either, no matter which way you turn the tap - it's pot luck on the day, or the time.  No sleep and hot/cold showers make me grumpy!

Thirdly, I think it's simply overhyped.  Vatican City and the Colosseum are the only things that have met with, or exceeded, my expectations.  The rest of Rome consists of piles of rubble, and the various churches galleries are scattered all over the city - and really, there are only so many churches one can visit.  Stick with the Vatican Museum, and you've pretty well seen the nost important art in Rome, other than Galleria Borghese - which whilst it has some Raphael and Titian, is mainly Caravaggio.  I'm much more looking forward to seeing my favourites in Florence and Venice:  Titian, Veronese and Botticelli, along with Michaelangelo and Da Vinci's works. 

So rather than spending any of tomorrow here, I'm leaving first thing for Florence.

Back to Pompeii.

Many skeletons have been found, in the position they died in - they fill them with concrete (it's not mumified)

Simply amazing.  I knew it was preserved quite well, but just how well is really surprising.  They are still excavating the site, and have begun on the other two towns destroyed by the volcanic explosion.  22,000 people lived in Pompeii at the time, and approximately 2,000 were killed in the eruption. 

So much of the city is still intact - the wood burned away of course, and the roofs (and subsequently some walls and pillars) collapsed under the weight of the ash over the centuries, but it's pretty well all still there.  Not much imagination is needed.  Freizes, mosaics, paint on the walls - quite a bit of this has even survived.

One of the 7 entrances into Pompeii - the roads are all original, and paved with volcanic rock

One of the first places we visited was a bath house - they had running water, and even an early version of a central heating system, involving double walls and floors and fireplaces.  The floor mosaics in the baths have completely survived along with some wall and ceiling decoration, and the lead piping.  The best way I can describe Pompeii, is with the photos. 

Bath House

Largest House in Pompeii

 The photo above is a part of the largest house found in Pompeii - 3,000 sqm large.  No, that's not a typo.  Below, a mosaic in the house. 

Mosaic Floor

One of the 34 Bakerys in the city

Wine Shop

Note the mosaic floor and mosaic fireplace and painted wall in th background in this house

There are many brothels in Pompeii - they have paintings above the doorways with suggestions of... what you can do inside.  Brothels were also marked with erm... symbols on either the wall or street outside, so you couldn't miss them...

Brothel

Lots of free paring - tie your horse to the sidewalk!  These are everywhere, especially on main steets

The Temple of Apollo - it has statues of Apollo and Diana (both copies, the originals are in Napoli) and the alter at the rear where animals were sacrificed.  Why is it the Americans in the tour groups are always the one to ask the stupid questions?  "Who built the Temple of Apollo, the Greeks or Romans?".  And another as we passed the prison, where well... they couldn't get out to escape the eruption "Who would have been put in the prison?"  Uhh... criminals?  Even the poor tour guide was hard pressed to deal with the stupidity at times.

Temple of Apollo

A fraction of the many, many preserved items from the city (with another skeleton in the back)

Theatre (fixed and used today for some things)

Another perfectly preserved mosaic

The main city Forum - you have to imagine the pillar go right around, the marble slab flooring...

Forum, with Vesuvius ever present in the background

The Basilica - although back then, the word meant Place of Justice, not place of worship

Main Street

Above, one of the four main streets of Pompeii (two ran E-W, two N-S).  You can see three stepping stones in the middle - the streets had no drainage, so people used the stones to walk across in bad weather.  The gaps in between were perfectly placed to allow horses and chariot wheels to ride through.

Shop Fronts on Main Street - you can see the counters

Wheel Ruts - shows you how heavy the traffic was on the streets!

Vatican City

You really can't know how much 320 steps are, until you climb them to the top of St Peter's Basillica Dome.

It is worth the panoramic view of Rome, but if you are unfit, have blisters all over your feet or asthmatic, don't bother.  It starts out okay, but towards the top the stairs are narrow, winding and there are no handrails.  Add claustrophobic to the list too, I think.  But if you don't have issues with the above, do it - the views truely are stunning. 

View from the Dome

Firstly, I visited St Peter's Basillica.  W-O-W.  They may not have contributed much else to society, but if there is one thing the Catholics know how to do (other than steal things), it's build over the top basillicas.  This thing is humongous and over the top opulent.  It's really impossible to convey it in one or two pictures. 

The canopy thing in the middle (below) is huge - not sure exactly of it's purpose, but it looks ultra important, so I imagine it's the sort of place where the Pope sits when he's making his really important announcements, such as advising the people in Africa that using contraceptives causes AIDS.  That sort of thing.

Ultra Important Canopy

There are a few tombs about the place, including one that appears to hold a mumified Pope, which is a little disconcerting.  His hands are all clawlike.  So I won't post that photo here, you may get nightmares.

Dotted around the place are also the largely ceremonial guards, which I think look just gorgeous, and they do these funny little salutes and pike movements when People of Importance walk by.  Only the Really Important Ones get the pike movements and foot stamping.  Along with generally just looking pretty, their other main function seems to be trying not to burst out laughing. 

Ceremonial Guards

The Vatican Museums are simply amazing, and hold a lot of statues and paintings.  Unfortunately I ran out of time to see it all before they closed.  It includes apartments that Raphael painted, walls and ceilings, for some pope or another. 

Of course, then there is the Sistine Chapel, which is the only part you aren't allowed to take photos in.  Michaelangelo was clearly either insane, or incredible bored when he decided to paint that ceiling.  Probably both.  It's huge, high, and absolutely... I've run out of superlatives.  Even if you have absolutely no idea what the paintings are supposed to symbolise, you can appreciate the work itself, and it's stunning.  There are a few Botticelli's in there too on the walls - he is one of my favourite painters. 

Vatican Square, with the Basillica in the centre

On the way to the Vatican I made a few stops, not all intentional - refer yesterday's post - and saw the Castle next to the Vatican, a Basillica, and a few other things, but I have an early start tomorrow for my tour to Pompeii, so I have to get to bed.  I'll write about those tomorrow.

Buonsomethinginitalian night.

Roman Forum

Oops!  I completely forgot that I visited this yesterday as well.  It's right at the bottom of the Palatine hill.

Again, much imagination is needed, because it's really just a pile of rubble and fallen pillars now.  A few things are intact, but not a lot. 

Running down from the direction of the Colosseum (which is out of frame to the right) to the Forum square (out of frame left) is the oldest street in Rome (where the people are walking).  There is a triumphal arch which it passes through, on the Colosseum side.

Oldest Street in Rome

The Forum Square was the meeting place, a spot to find out the latest news and generally see and be seen. 

Forum Square - Just in front of the arch in the background

Imagination time below: 

How it was supposed to have looked

How it looks now

Roma

Today, I got lost in Rome.

I don't mean figuratively, romantically lost.  Literally, hopelessly, lost.  Numerous times.  The often narrow and always going in odd directions streets aren't always well signposted, and it's very easy to get turned around.  Signs for the major tourist attractions are virtually non existent, and if they are present, they point you in the right direction a mile or so from the site, then don't offer any further direction thereon.  And as I said, the streets don't all go in proper directions.

There is a good side to always getting lost though, because you get to see streets and sights you otherwise wouldn't.  Rome is a beautiful city, obviously full of history and culture, and you can't walk far - even in the wrong direction - without coming across some sort of Sight.  Usually, piles of ancient rubble and fallen columns. 

My plane from Nice was delayed last night, so it was after midnight by the time I got into my hotel.  Even so, the taxi ride - with my very helpful driver Patrizio pointing out the sights (sorry ladies, no resembelance at all to that Patrizio) - was interesting.  Even at night, the Colesseum is sight to behold, and we drove right past it, as the hotel I'm staying at is just up the street.  My hotel itself is okay - I had to have a cold shower this morning which was... invigorating... and again, no iron, tissues, mini bar, shampoo and the like, or even a fridge to keep drinks cold, but wireless internet is provided free and is relatively fast, and the staff are excellent and extremely helpful, without even being asked. 

I have to say, Italians in general are incredibly friendly and helpful.  Maybe a little too much of the former sometimes, but you can't have everything.

But I digress.

Inside the Colesseum

This morning I set out for the Colesseum, which is overwhelming when you are standing next to it.  As with the sights I saw in Paris, the photos can't prepare you for seeing the sights in the flesh.  Well, stone.  And marble, where it's not been destroyed by the Christians.  Anyway, They say that over 700,000 people were killed in the Colesseum back in the day. 

Next was a walk to the Palatino Hill, where Romulus first founded Rome.  The Emperors' Palace was later built up here, and continually expanded upon by each, to prove their superiorty.  The palace evenutally came to cover the entire hill, and the hill needed to be expanded to fit it all, hence a lot of the Palatino hill is made of brick.  The palace would truely have been something to see, and would have surpassed all of the palaces that are in France (yes, even including Versailles). 

The Emperor's Home Theatre

Unfortunately now, you really have to use your imagination.  All that is left is some of the brickwork - some part due to time, but mainly wars, earthquakes, barbarians and even worse, Christians, have totaly destroyed the wonders of ancient Rome.  The various Popes and the like didn't like the idea of actually having to pay for bricks and marble for their Vatican and cathedrals, so they resorted to stealing it - I mean, 'recycling' it, from the ancient Roman buildings.  Apparently they justified this because they were pagan buildings and therefore could be destroyed, despite their splendor and importance in history, and having stood for over a thousand years before they came along, but who can argue with a Christian's 'logic'?...

Anyway, as a result there is no marble sheathing, no mosaics, and very little brickwork left of the Palace.  If you want to see the Palace, you have to go to the Vatican to see the marble there. 

End of rant.  It just really bothers me that anything good is always destroyed by Them that shall no longer be mentioned.

Circus Maximus

By the Palace is Circus Maximus - again, you really have to use your imagination.  Apparently it was bombed in one of the wars, but I can't vouch for that - mostly it was just looted over the years and possibly used for building materials.  In the photo you can see the Palace on the left - a little further along out of shot is the viewing balcony for the Emperor. 

Raphael's Tomb

I also went to visit the Pantheon, which has an opening in the top of the Dome which lets in the snow and rain. Thankfully today was a sunny day, although I'm told it is a sight to see. The Dome is as wide as it is tall, and the hole is meant to help it hold up structrually. Within the Pantheon is Raphael's tomb, as well as two Roman kings. The Pantheon has pretty much remained in it's original state, the only thing replaced is the flooring, which has been replicated (not sure what happened to the original).

Inside the Pantheon

Trevi Fountain

After a few more little Piazzas and fountains and getting thoroughly lost along the way, I made it to the Trevi Fountain.  Beautiful, but somewhat underwhelming - I was expecting it to be bigger I think, but mainly it was due to the fact it's squished between buildings, and I always assumed it was in a large Piazza, with... space.  Photos are so deceiving.  Apparently it's a sight to see at night, but I wasn't game to be wondering the streets of Rome at night on my first night, given my ability to get lost in full daylight.

So I threw my coin over my shoulder, and headed back to my hotel for the night.  In the right direction, I'm happy to add. 

President's House

Moyenne Corniche, Eze & Cannes

Moyenne Corniche in the middle, and the
 Grande Corniche at the very top of the mountain

I started today early, with a drive up the Moyenne Corniche, before it got too busy.  Driving the Moyenne Corniche was something I really wanted to do before I left, and I picked the perfect day for it - it was the only day since I came to Nice that's been perfectly clear up in the mountains.

The Moyenne Corniche is a great driving road - so long as there isn't much traffic - and the views along the way are absolutely spectacular.  There are numerous spots along the way where you can pull over and take in the views of the Sea.

I stopped at the medieval village of Eze, which is perched up high on a mountain.  The village is beautifully preserved, and you can walk through the narrow streets - most of them are so narrow you can reach out and touch the buildings either side.  At the top, surrounding the ruins of the old fort, is an exotic garden of desert plants. 

The views from the very top are nothing short of spectacular. You can see Nice Airport, and all the way to Cannes in the distance.  As I said, luckily it was a beautifully clear day, because the rest of the week the mountains have been shrouded in mist. 

View from the top of Eze

Cannes Festival Building

After driving back into Nice, I took the train to Cannes, which is about a 40-45 minute ride, depending on the stops.  For those who love sandy beaches (rather than the pebble variety) Cannes is the place for you.  Most of the beaches along the main strip are private, but if you walk a little further along there are plenty of places, packed full of sunbathers.

Beautiful Cannes Beach

I took the Petit Train tour around the city - aside from the beach here isn't a heap to see, other than the old town, which has a cathedral on top, as they all seem to.  The main beachfront is lined with swanky hotels, including the famous Carlton.  It's a city to be seen in, and it would be something being here durng the Cannes Film Festival!

The Carlton

 
Tomorrow is my last day in France, as I fly out to Rome tomorrow night.  I'll be sorry to say goodbye, the two weeks have absolutely flown by, and there is still so much I didn't get see!

Adieu France!

French Alps

Biot Glassblowers

Today I drove up into the Alps to visit some of the villages.  The scenery is absolutely stunning.  I drove through a few villages - I have no idea what, as it involved unplanned scenic routes as a result of some arguments with my GPS - and stopped in Biot, then Grasse.

Making the Horse

Biot is known for its glassblowers, so after a quick visit into the village square, I went to the major glassblowers factory, where you can see them in action.  They make it look so incredibly easy!  One of the glassblowers was making horses, about as big as your hand, and it took all of five minutes per horse.  It was all amazing to watch.  There were a lot of things in the boutique I wanted to buy, but it was too risky packing in my suitcase, and postage would be exhorbitant. 

A small version of a nose's workstation -
usually there would be hundeds more scents!

Then it was off to Grasse, namely for the Fragonard Perfume Factory.  You can take a free tour of the factoy - unfortunately no workers there today, being Saturday - and the guides explain the process behind the perfume.  You can also purchase directly from them, and straight perfumes are sold at about the price you'd get an eaux de toilette in a normal shop - according to our guide, this is due to the fact in stores, what you are mostly paying for is the packaging and brand.  They also bottle all of their perfumes and eaux de toilettes in metal, which keeps better - up to four years, rather than the two of a glass bottle.  The factory smelled wonderful, and they had a lot of amazing scents to choose from. 

Original way of extracting scent from flowers that can't stand heat (ie steaming it out) - sit the flowers on animal fat for a few months...

To become a top perfumeur, or "noses" as they are called, you have to study for several years, then complete an apprenticeship - the main school is at the University of Versailles, and to get into the course, you have to be able to identify at least 350 difference scents.  There are only 50 top noses in the world.  The whole place was fascinating. 

... then the fat that is left once the scent has been extracted is turned into scented soap!

The scent itself, once extracted from flowers and fruits, etc, is the consistency of oil.  Typically, 80% of any type of perfume is alcohol.  In the case of parfum, it's then usually 20% perfume oil, although the percentages change slightly.  For eau de parfum, it's down to about 10% perfume oil, with water added to make up the rest, and eau de toilette only about 5% perfume oil, so about 15% is just water. 

Also as part of the Fragonard factory, is a costume museum, which is a private collection of 18th and 19th century Provencal gowns.  You weren't allowed to take photos, so they are a little dodgy in quality as I had to sneak them, and it was quite dark in there too.  There was a definite theme of flowers in the outfits the women wore, influenced by the abundance of flowers in the area, which then led to the opening of the perfume factory. 

All very droolworthy!  The work on the dresses and accessories is just amazing. 

Everything was in French, but I could read the part that said "Marie Antoinette" - not sure if it's one of her actual gowns, or was an imitation made at the time, of the fashions she wore.