Sunday, September 19, 2010

Home at Last

I guess I should tie this up.  And I'm going to try and not finish it on a furious, seething note.

KL was great, except for the people hawking at you all the time, and the sales assistants stalking you through the shops.  The minute they started doing that I left, even if there was something I wanted to buy.  It's unnerving.

Friday morning I went to the shopping centre at the Petronas towers, and mostly did window shopping, but I did get two pairs of gorgeous Ferragamos, which insisted they come home with me.  I just can't argue with shoes. 

Then I went to Chinatown.  I lasted about 10 minutes before the people asking me if I want DVD?  I have TV too!  We have real shop over here lady!  got on my nerves, and there really wasn't anything there that was worth the effort being hassled, and also trying to bargain, so I very quickly left.  I really don't know how people deal with those places, but I guess I just wasn't made for markets, of any sort.

Although the ones in Nice were nice.  Eep.  No pun intended.  They were civilised.

So since Chinatown made me irritable, I headed to the lake park garden things, dodging many taxis asking if lady wanted a ride, and spent the rest of the day in the bird aviary they have there, which was really cool.  It was a nice, relaxing way to spend my last moments on holiday.  Oh, and the butterfly park before that.  You have NO idea how hard it is to take photos of a fluttering butterfly! 

Anyway, it's back to crapalaide - well, truly it's good to be home, but I really expected the weather would have improved somewhat - it's still the bloody middle of winter!  UNbelievable.  Everyone on the flight home was coughing and spluttering, and now I feel like I'm coming down with something too.  Gotta love being home.  Not.

Okay, onto the seething, because I have to get it out.  Thankfully, I got the phone call this morning telling me my suitcase had arrived at Adelaide Airport, and I could come pick it up (it was in Customs, so they couldn't send it all on.  They thought the olive oil was alcohol).  And then they didn't bother looking in it anyway, they just gave it to me.

So anyway, I was thankful.  Then I opened my suitcase when I got home, and I could tell straight away that it had been thorougly gone through.  Assuming, it was the idiot passanger that nicked it, since Customs aren't allowed to go through it without you there to open it.  I could tell, because I know exactly how I packed it - the same way I always packed it - and when it's backed that tight, there is NO way boxes can shift to the other end of your suitcase, and in an different orientation.  That, and half of it was sitting on top of the straps I'd done up to hold it all together.

Which in itself is absolutely disgusting - and the thought that someone has pawed through all of my belongings is awful. 

They STOLE my KIMI caps.  All three of them.  STOLE them!  And my camera charger, but that could also have fallen out, given they unzipped all of the internal pockets as well, which it was sitting in.

They stole my Kimi caps though!  Who would DO that!  Clearly, they thought it was something that wouldn't be missed.  And yes, I KNOW they were in there, I can pictur myself packing them. 

I'm beyond furious, and, on top of the person taking and using my credit card, have finally lost any little faith I may have had left in people.  The world would really be a better place if there were no people in it.

So, the charger is considered electrical and therefore not covered as it was in my luggage, (which is why I always had my cameras and laptop on me) and the $250 excess is about what it will cost me to replace the caps anyway (considering the postage typically costs as much as the caps themselves).  But at least I've hunted them down.  Kimi Ferrari caps are hard to come by these days...

So, that's the end of my holiday.  I officially hate Italy, and everything to do with it.  I'm sure I had good experiences there, but I don't remember them at the moment.  I have no faith left in people full stop, an I'm down three Kimi caps.  Oh, and camera chargers cost a bloody fortune too. 

The end. 

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Kuala Lumpur

Screw Milan.  If you really want to go shopping, KL is the place to be!  And you really can get whatever you want - from designer to the rip offs, and everything in between.

I absolutely LOVE KL.  People here speak English better than in Europe, they are genuinely friendly, polite, and helpful.  It's a really welcoming place, and made me feel right at home.  The stickiness of the air takes a bit of getting used too, especially when you are walking around, but it's no unbearable.  It's clean, tidy, and I feel completely safe walking around on my own.  The only annoying thing is the people who run the dodgy stalls that you sometimes just can't walk around.  No, lady doesn't want to buy a damn watch!

I had to have a nap when I got into my (fabulous) hotel today, because I had barely slept for two days.  The flight was uneventful, but I didn't sleep.  After ready my book and watching a movie, I tried to drift off, but just as I did the stewards called for a doctor's assistance over the PA, if there were any on board.  I never did find out what happened, but it can't have been anything major.  Then I discovered Ever After was an option on that flight for movies, and that was that.

Good thing I had the nap too, because then I found out that today is the Malaysia day, where they celebrate their independence, and there is a huge fireworks show being lauched from the top of the building across the road, at midnight, from which there is apparently a good view from the hotel's pool deck. 


You really appreciate a decent hotel which actually provides the full complement of toiletries (finally) when your own are floating around Italy somewhere, and an ironing board and iron when you have limited clothes (again because they are stuck in damn Italy). 

Given I was feeling a little lost without my luggage, and I needed some more essentials anyway, and the Golden Triangle is on my doorstep, there really was only one option in the situation. 

So I headed out and bought a new suitcase (a good Samsonite for half the price I would have gotten it back home - and given I was going to buy this size suitcase when I got home anyway (having finally conceded my normal suitcase really is too large) - this whole losing my luggage thing has turned into a cost saving exercise, really). 

To kill some time until midnight, I went for a wander in the direction of the Petronas Towers, which look fantastic at night.  And purely by accident, I discovered officially THE best shopping centre in the entire world, at the foot of the towers. The centre is purely designer, but also has some more middle range desigers in there like Guess, Esprit, etc - but if you want your Prada, Chanel, Jimmy Choo or Ferragamo, this is the place to go! 

Needness to say, this is where I'll be spending tomorrow.  Like I said, screw Milan!

My laptop cable is also floating somewhere around Italy, so I have limited PC time (a product of the cheap flight from Milan to Rome, with only one carryone strictly allowed, therefore having to fill my hand luggage with my laptop and handbag rather than cords and the things I would usually always have with me, just in case...).  I even had to buy a bloody phone charger.

Agh!  But I'm not going to think of that.  Because I'm in KL, and it's absoluteluy fabulous. And tomorrow, I'm determined to get some Jimmy Choos.

So goodnight, and see you Saturday!

Oh, I almost forgot.  I found Tim Tams in the supermarket.  TIM TAMS!!!!!   This is offically the best city in the world. 

Yes of course I bought some.  Don't be stupid.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Goodbye Italy!

Tonight is my last night in Milan and therefore Italy, and I have to say, I'm not sorry to leave Italy! 

Today I went shopping - well, window shopping.  There are two things I've noticed about shopping in Milan: firstly, it's either designer - and I mean, real designer, the good stuff - or it's trash, aimed at teenagers.  There doesn't seem to be an in between, at least not around the areas that are walking distance from my hotel.  I'm sure it's not the case further out, maybe just in the main city area.  If I'd had more time, or come here just for the shopping, I would have been able to get out to the designer warehouses, which are meant to be really great. 

The other thing is, it's all winter stock right now.  Well technically, they call it their autumn season stock, but it's heavier clothing than we get in stores in for winter!  I assume it gets really cold here.  It's all heavy wools, cashmere, fur... beautiful things, but there is no way I'm buying winter clothes and encouraging the crappy weather back home.  I want summer, dammit!  Plus, I've seriously run out of suitcase space (and luggage weight allowance...)

I have a 4am start tomorrow, so it's off to bed early for me.  Goodbye Italy, hope I don't see you again any time soon!  France, I'll definitely be going back to, some day...

And these mozzies can definitely get stuffed!  :p

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Race Day at Monza

Did I mention the mozzies here are brutal? The welts aren't as itchy as back home, but they last for days and days - I'm covered in red welts, I look like I have measles or something! If only there was a shot against mozzies too.

Race day at Monza. It really is something, being at Monza when a Ferrari wins. The tifosi have well and truly fallen in love with Alonso now. I almost feel sorry for Flippi - even before qualifying, you wouldn't have known he existed. They completely ignored him.

It was another beautiful day - 25c I think, and sunny, but it felt like 30c at least in the stands. It took over two hours again to get to and from the track, despite the fact I found a more reliable train line. You spend more time travelling to and from the track than you do AT the track each day.

The atmosphere is good, as expected, but I would think it's even better over where the smaller stands and general admission areas are, I think the main group of really mad tifosi are there. The main, more expensive stands are mostly made up of a mix of people from all different countries, all supporting different teams, and so there isn't a great deal of mingling, simply because everyone is speaking a different language. You can't just start chatting to the person next to you if they are speaking Spanish to each other. Or maybe it was Italian. It could have been Portuguese...


Monza is one of those races I think you need to experience, at least once in your lifetime, but I really have to say, in all honesty, for an all round event and atmosphere, Melbourne is far, far better. I think this is mostly down to the organisation, lack of travelling time, and extras around the track, but also a huge part of it is, most people do speak the same language, so it's easier to have a chat with anyone. I met more people on the way to and from the racetrack this weekend, than I did at the actual track.

Having said that, being here has got me all revved up for Melbourne again next year!

There were a few Aussies who made the trip too! Heaps of poms, but they said it was only a two hour flight or something from London, so there you go.

There were huge cheers when Hamilton crashed out, and almost as huge cheers when Alonso overtook Button after the pit stops. They all went mad when Alonso won of course, you'd think he'd won the WDC! Then everyone crams onto the track, and runs towards the podium, which for some strange reason is at the opposite end of the straight, AWAY from the VIP, corporate and premium stand areas, so you can't actually see it from your stand.

But given literally tens of thousands of people were trying to cram through a one metre gap they opened up in the fence to the race track, I decided it was best not to bother.


Vettel's strategy was a huge gamble, but luckily worked out in the end, to finish in front of Webber. As a Ferrari fan, I should be happy that Alonso won, but as a Kimi fan, he shouldn't have bloody been in that car in the first place... (I'm still struggling with the whole supporting Ferrari thing this year).

It was back to Duomo for dinner, and I had THE best gnocchi ever.  I know I said that about the on I had in Venice, but this really was THE best.  It was creamy and cheesy and mushroomy.  Even without the yummy sauce, the gnocchi itself would have been good.  I'm so learning to make it when I get home. 

So tomorrow is my last day in Milan, and last full day in Italy. Tuesday I head out first thing, fly to Rome for my flight to KL. I've tried, really tried to avoid it, but tomorrow is going to be a lazy shopping day. Not taking home some clothes or shoes from Milan is like driving in Formula 1 for seven years and not taking home a win...

... oh wait...

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Chocolate

I've had a lot of criticisms regarding Italy, but that all pales into insignificance with what I discovered tonight.

I had a craving for chocolate, so I headed to the supermarket up the street to get a Mars bar or something.  But do you think you can buy a chocolate bar in Italy?

I had noticed this in other supermarkets, but they were smaller, and I figured that was the reason.  Confectionary shelves are very limited, and you can only buy (not great looking) blocks of chocolate, or in the case of the few options of chocolate bars (generally limited to Snickers, Bountys and Mars bars), you can only buy them in bulk packets.

The problem with having to buy six Mars bars, is that... well, you then have six Mars bars to eat.

The only place I've ever seen chocolate bars is at service stations on the highway.

Italy has a distinct lack of chocolate.  No wonder the country is a shambles. 

Monza Day 2

Something completely amazing and totally unexpected happened today.

There was a display of total... efficiency. 

Yes, I'm still in Italy.  I had to pinch myself, I thought maybe I'd fallen asleep during the GP2 race or something. 

Upon returning to the shuttle pick up point to Monza station this afternoon, they had fences up, so people lined up.  And people controlling it so they did line.  And buses were waiting.  I think there must have been a foreigner in charge, but still.  There may be hope or Italy yet.

Of course, there were even less trains going to Monza this morning than yesterday, and four times the people headed there - every two hours or so, and no more shuttles take you to the track. 

Despite the 'information' person at the central station - and I use the word information very loosely - saying that was the best station for going to Monza, I think they were wrong.  The trains coming back from Monza go to a different station in Milan, on a different line, and leave every 10-15 minutes or so, so surely the case is the same in the morning.  At any rate, I'm trying my luck there tomorrow.  It couldn't be any worse - right???

Also, if you ask one of the conductors on the platform if the particular train is going to Monza and they say no, and you ask them which line and train does, the very helpful response is always "not this one". 

In all, if someone official or in any sort of position of authority here tells you something, you can be pretty sure the opposite is true, I've found.  The hotel receptionist (the nice one) couldn't even mark the correct street on my map for the hotel.  Hmm...

Speaking of my hotel, I have noticed that once I started heading out in my Ferrari gear in the mornings, their attitude has improved.  Which, IMO, is totally wrong, but I'll take it.  And although it's going against every fibre in my being, I'm trying to be as friendly as I can to the nasty receptionists, and greet them as I come and go.  It's killing me, but I actually got a smile this evening.  Maybe they will successfully call me a taxi Tuesday morning after all...

The GP itself is good - no where near the support races that Melbourne has, but then the quality of the support races is so much better - GP2 being the main, obviously.  Around the track there isn't a lot to see or do in general, also a huge contrast to Melbourne.  I walked around a bit today with the great unwashed, but it really was packed full of unwashed, so I retreated back to my area pretty quickly. 

Speaking of unwashed, when you are squished onto shuttle buses and generally at the height of other people's armpits, you really do realise how many people don't shower in the morning.  In this day and age of running water, this is totally unacceptable.  Have showers in the morning, people!  You may not smell yourselves, but believe me, everyone else will...

If you ever come to Monza, get a seat in the Centrale Grandstand, it really is worth the extra money.  There is a proper (although expensive for what it is) sit down restaurant, bar and, thankfully (after poking my head into the other options around the track...) real, permanent, clean toilets.  It's clean, and not overcrowded, the seats are great, and you can easily get to the centre of the track via a series of tunnels rather than having to trek around. 

It would be really funny if Schumacher wins tomorrow, in a Mercedes.  He's still much loved in the grandstands, that's for sure. 

So long as Alonso doesn't win, please don't let Alonso win.  I'd even take a Webber win instead... actually, Kubica winning would be more fitting. 

Err... Forza Ferrari!

Friday, September 10, 2010

Italy

The second conclusion I came to today - other than the fact you just aren't meant to get to the Monza track - if you had to choose betwen living in Italy, and say... I don't know, working in the saltmines of Siberia, you'd choose Sibera every time, no contest.

Italy is an absolute disorganised mess.  The only thing that works in the entire country is the subway system (which is excellent, as in France).  I honestly don't know how the country even functions day to day.  As a tourist, it's inconvenient - but you deal with it because you know you don't have to stay.  I don't know how people deal with it day to day. 

I thought I would absolutely love Italy, but I really haven't.  I'd quite happily never come here again.  With hindsight, I shouldn't have thown that coin in the Trevi Fountain...

Don't get me wrong - there are parts of my trip in Italy that I've absolutely loved, and places too - Tuscany is probably one of, if not the, most beautiful places on earth, and Pompeii was one of the main highlights of my entire trip.  But as a whole, the country is one big, messy and unhelpful disappointment.

Maybe this is in part due to the bad experiences I've had at more than one hotel now.  No sleep, bad showers and uncomfortable lodgings is always an issue.  Or maybe it's my need for organisation, which doesn't appear to be in the Italian vocabulary.  Or maybe it's both.

France, as a whole, I completely loved, despite of course having some not so great experiences there too, but I never expected all of my trip to be perfect.  Despite people always going on about how unhelpful, arrogant and rude the French are, I found them to be totally the opposite, and Italians can be the ones with the attitude problems.

Italians in general are friendly, but there can be some really rude ones too - like anywhere I suppose.

And one last thought for toinght - don't walk into a post office in Italy thinking you can actually buy postage products and materials there.  Because you can't.  I have no idea where you buy packaging, envelopes, stamps, boxes, bags, etc from - but it's not at a post office.  Go figure that one out (I couldn't, since the very rude and grumpy lady couldn't, or wouldn't, speak English).

Monzay - Friday

I've come to the conclusion that the Monza GP organisers really don't want people to get to and from the track.

I'd heard the transportation wasn't fantastic, but nothing prepared me for the reality of it.  Nor anyone else, evidently.

Monza is somewhere between 15-20km out of Milan central.  Probably 15km, as the crow flies (or train runs).  This 15km trip too me over two hours this m morning, and that wasn't including the 15 minute walk from my hotel to the subway stop, then the subway ride to the Central Railway station.

You have to buy your train tickets by machine, there are no people (or weren't this morning, at any rate).  Figuring that out is fine, so long as the machine doesn't randomly switch languages on you half way through your transaction - I guess they like to keep you on your toes.  The problem is the fact that, you type in the machine that you want to go to Monza, it prints out on your ticket that you are going to Monza, but there is no information anywhere - either on the monitors, the ticket machines, your tickets - and there are no paper timetables anywhere - telling you which line Monza is actually on.  So you have no idea which train to get on.  Anyway, I eventually found other lost looking GP fans, and after much investigation, we found the correct train.
  
If you were wondering, Monza is on the Tirano track. 

It was then about a 15-20 minute train ride out to Monza. Then a half hour wait for the free shuttle service to the track. Another half hour on the shuttle, which drops you off on the very outskirts of the park where the racetrack is, and it's another half hour walk at least to the actual gates. As the shuttles are few and far between - and it takes several to get a single tain load to the track - you are jammed on like cattle.


There is no signage. Anywhere. You wouldn't know a GP is on. There is no extra public transport, no extra trains.

This was after I was standing at the ticket machine about to get my ticket, and a 'helpful' Italian asked me where I was going and quickly typed it all in for me.  And then wanted to be paid for doing so.  At which point I told him to bugger off, as I never asked for help in the first place.  He tried to do the same to the people behind me, but seeing what had happened, the told him to bugger off too. 

THIS, was after spending the morning trying to change hotels.  Despite prepaying, it was worth losing that money and going to another hotel - that's how bad this place is.  The reception staff are terrible, which I've already said, the room is sweltering - despite being advertised as an air conditioned hotel, which is all good and well, but they don't turn it on in the rooms, only the reception area.  AND I am getting no sleep. 

However, as I suspected may be the case, Milan is totally booked out, unless I want to pay, at the cheapest, 420 euro per night.  Which is tempting, I'll admit.  But at least I have earplugs from the track now, so I'll just have to deal. 

How do you like that.  I need earplugs for the idiots in reception and their disgraceful Italian 'music', but not for F1 cars.  Go figure that one out. 

So.  The worst hotel on earth, difficultly getting to the track, god awful shuttle and sticky walk to track.  

But once I got to my seat for FP2 (missing of course FP1 in all this saga), I realised that it was all worth it, as soon as those cars came out. 

Of course, that was after I found the ultra secret tunnel leading to my grandstand.  Every other grandstand is clearly marked with number and name, except, of course, the one I am in.  Which has an entrance (without the grandstand name) that looks like one of the places on the track I wouldn't be allowed in with my ticket, and like I said, there was a tunnel.  I'm right on the start finish line - well, grid place 4 or so.  The seat is excellent.  I'll need binoculars or something tomorrow though, because the screens are rather small, but mostly, just on angles from where I am sitting that I can't read names or positions, so I had no idea who was where in FP1. 

It took 1 1/2 hours to get from the gate back to Monza Station.  Half hour walk to shuttle, half hour wait for shuttle again, half hour trip.

Phew.  Two more days of this.  I need to get up even earlier, and leave over two hours earlier than I want to arrive.  And it wasn't even busy today...

The general consensus of everyone I spoke to, or overheard, who have been to other GPs, is that Monza is the most terribly organised race on the entire calendar.  Of course, being the Monza GP, it still sells out, so I guess the organisers don't see a point in spending money organising things properly.

Picture one of those YouTube clips of trains in China, where they have people at the stations literally pushing people into the trains so they all fit.  That was the shuttle.  Only ten times worse. 

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Milan Day 2

The mozzies here are brutal.  Filthy bloodsuckers.

After last night's thunder storm and torrential rain, I was prepared this morning with my umbrella and spray jacket.  Of course, Milan turned out a beautiful, warm and sunny day!  I think it's going to be like this for the rest of the week, thank goodness - or at least over the race weekend.  Last night when I went out I wondered why the street was so deserted, and wondered where the hell I was staying (I had thought it was in the middle of the city) - but clearly, everyone else just realised the storm was coming, because tonight it's a teeming metropolis.

Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending how you look at it), I won't have time to visit any of the designer outlets, which in general are quite a way out of the city - at least an hour by car, I believe.  But, I am within walking distance of Monte Napoleone...

My hotel apparently has a central heating/cooling system, although I think that must just be in the passageways and common areas, because in my room, I'm sweltering!  Ah well, such is life.

This hotel is also on the official black list, along with Europcar - not for the lack of cooling, but for the rude staff.  I purchased my interet for the next few days, as it's not included, but it's cheap so that was fine.  I was having issues where it kept randomly booting me and sending me back to the login page whilst I was surfing, and then wouldn't let me log in again, because the account was already in use.  Something fairly small, you'd think.

So, as you do, I went to reception to explain what was happening, to see if there was a way to fix it, or if they were having connection issues.  I was told, in no uncertain terms by the rude, arrogant, smug and just downright nasty prick on reception that I'd paid for my internet, it was non refundable, and that it wasn't his problem if it wasn't working.

Anyway.  I kept my temper by some miracle, and he eventually gave me new logon details - free of charge, as he so rudely pointed out.  The same issue is occuring on and off, but nevermind.

It's very disappointing, because I've relied so much on hotel staff for tips and advice, especially travelling on my own, and they've been an absolute goldmine of information everywhere else, and so helpful.  It really does make life easier. 

Needless to say, I'll be putting bad reviews up of this hotel on every travel forum I can find online.  Hotel Carribbio on Via Medici, people.  Don't stay here.  Do, however, try the Argentinian restaurant across the road! 

After that little moment, the day was good.  I needed a lazy day, so I meandered through the city.  Milan is pure evil, especially if you have shopping issues.  You can't walk ten metres without coming upon a shoe store, not to mention everything else.  I'm very proud of the fact that the only shop I actually stepped foot in, let along bought things, was the Ferrari Store here, which was planned.  So it's okay.

That store is amazing.  Ferrari heaven, split over four levels.  And the shoes I was going to buy for over 70 euro a year or so ago, I got for under 13 euro, bonus.  Of course, they forgot to take the security tag out of one of the items I purchased, which I didn't realise until I got back to my hotel, so I'm going to have to go back...

Tomorrow it's off to the race.  We'll see how the public transport is to the track - I don't think it's anywhere near as organised as Melbourne is when it comes to making things easy on travellers going to the race.  From my hotel I need to take the metro then the normal trains, but that's okay.  I think the issue will then be the 30 minute walk from Monza station to the track gate, because for some reason, they only have shuttles taking you out there on the Sunday (I don't think They have picked up on the fact the event is three days, yet).

So I'm told.  We shall see what we shall see!

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Venice to Milan

It all began with that shoe on the wall...

... actually it was more of a Crappy Wednesday than a Wacky Wednesday.  One day, I'll look back on this all and laugh.  At least, that's what I keep telling myself.

Where to begin?  I woke up in Venice this morning to rain.  Which wouldn't have been such a big deal, but for the fact that somewhere along the way, I seem to have misplaced my umbrella.  Plus, due to the whole boat thing, dragging suitcases and bags on and off them with an often large difference in levels between said boats and land, I brought the bare minimum with me, leaving the rest in my car.  The bare minimum, unfortunately, didn't include my spray jacket or jumpers, etc.

Anyway, I only had a few hours before heading off to Milan, so I layered up as much as I could, and headed out, first stop to buy an umbrella.  As luck would have it, not three steps from my hotel door did I run into one of those men that seems to sell just what you need.  So I parted with my 10 euro, and got an umbrella.  And, as the luck of today would have it, it was the type that prefers to be inside out, than the right way.

My first stop was the San Sebastian church, where it is said Veronese took shelter after fleeing Verona on murder accusations.  He was so grateful, he decorated the church.  I don't know if this was true or not, but either way, the entire church is Veronese, so I had to have a look.  Of course, after trudging all the way there in the rain, I arrived only to find most of the works are temporarily out of sight, as they are restoring them.  There were still a few to see though, along with the main pieces around the alter, so all was not lost.  I even snuck some photos. 


At least when I headed back toward San Marco, the rain stopped, so I could put away my not very effective umbrella.  Next stop, the Ferrari Store.  Not well stocked, but oh well. 

I headed back to the main square to my last stop, which was the San Marco Basilica.  Only to find that this section of Venice was now under about a foot of water.  There were only two options - the first was head back to my hotel, on the same level ground as the Ferrari store - or when in Rome (or Venice, as the case may be) - take off your shoes and socks, roll up your pants, and carry on.  The water wasn't too freezing, and since after a while you couldn't feel your toes anyway, it didn't much matter.  Anyway, it was still a novelty at this point and everyone was in the same boat anyway! 

No pun intended there.  The boats weren't stupid enough to venture out.

San Marco... canal?

The Basilica, I'd been told, was very beautiful inside, and the roof glitters with jewels.  Of course, the lighting inside is so terrible that you're lucky to see the ceiling at all, let alone the glitters, so let's just say I was thankful entry was free. 

Of course, at this point I realised that although it was all good and well for me to traipse around Venice barefoot, my suitcase couldn't, and I had no way of getting it from my hotel to any of the Vaporetto docks without getting it dunked, so unless I wanted to stay an extra night in Venice, the only way out was private water taxi.

So I parted with my 70 euro - exhorbitant for the relatively short trip and abrupt, grumpy service, but worth it for the convenience, I have to say.  On a normal day though, the Vaporetto is nicer anyway, because you actually get to see more along the way, and have photo opportunities.  And at 6.50 euro...

The drive to Milan was boring and uneventful - yes, this means I didn't get lost once!  Until I had to drop my car off at Milan Central Railway Station.  Now, Europcar boast having easy to find, and well signposted drop off points, but drive around the station though I might, for over half an hour (in peak hour traffic), there was no signage anywhere.  Tom, my usually faithful GPS, had no idea either - even though they have their drop off points programmed into the GPS, the best directions it could give me was to the front of the railway station.  So, illegally parked, grumpy and starving, after several phone calls, I got the Station office.  Who said they'd come down to me.  An hour and another phone call later, they finally did.

On the upside, I never did have to pay for that (late) GPS...

By this time I was thorougly exhausted, grumpy and dying of hunger, so I decided to catch a taxi back to my hotel - thankfully I'd already dropped off my luggage - instead of trying to negotiate the subway. 

And managed to get the one taxi driver in Milan who didn't know his way around. 

At least he stopped the meter half way through, after making the second of several trips around the same block.  All taxi drivers have GPS.  Of course, he didn't know how to use it... "These are all good and well, but for taxi drivers, it's all in the memory!!!"

Dinner, at long last - still craving red meat, I went to an Argentinian restaurant nearby.  Which completely saved my day.  My steak was not only several inches thick, it was still mooing.  Good, hot bread, veggies and red wine, and of course, dessert, and I felt much better!

Of course a thunder storm had started in the meantime and I got soaked to the bone running back to my hotel, but at least a hot shower was waiting for me!  (Even if the shower is mounted a belly button height, and you have to hold it, or sit down, to have a shower...)


But tomorrow is Thursday, and I'm off to the GP - and hopefully, there will be no more shoe on the wall (wet and soggy as they now all are)...

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Venice

I had some really good gnocchi for lunch today. I don't even like gnocchi. At least, I didn't. I think I'm going to have to learn to make it when I get home.

I love Venice. The only downside is it's so bloody cold here. The morning was almost unbearable. Oh, and there are way too many tourists, or maybe you just notice it more because the space they can all cram into is so much smaller than the other cities. I don't think I could handle living in a city that had tourists.

Grand Canal
As I think I mentioned, I'm staying next to Piazza San Marco, and this morning there was some sort of army parade on. I think it was to farewell the troops heading off to Afghanistan. They sure do make a day of it, and they were there for several hours - parading, army band, singing of various songs including the National Anthem...

Soldier's Parade
This was on the way to my first stop of the day. I started the morning at the Doge's palace, and did the Secret Passageways tour as well. The palace is wonderful - just about every ceiling and wall is filled with paintings, much of it Veronese and Tintoretto, two of my favourites. It's the paintings, and the things I saw on the tour, that gives it something special, different from the numerous other palaces I've seen the past month.

Palace Courtyard
Actually, much of Venice seems to have been decorated by Veronese and Tintoretto.
Golden Staircase
The tour was really interesting - it took you away from the main part of the palace, to areas you can only access with the tour. You see the Grand Chancellor's office, the rooms where the Inquisitors and other tribunals sat, walk through the secret and service stairs and passageways, and best of all, see the prison area where the Very Important Prisoners were kept - which main centered around Casanova. Our guide was obviously very passionate about it all, and was a wonderful storyteller. She told us about Casanova's stay in the prison, and his escape - all based on his own writings, so one can assume they are embellished by Casanova himself a little, but it's a wonderful story, and even better for hearing it where the events actually took place. I must get his book when I get home!

Mouth of Truth - post your letter telling on your neighbours. Truth you get rewarded, if it's a lie, you suffer the punishment for the crime you wrongly claimed they committed. 
We saw the torture chamber - which consisted simply of a rope, which was tied around your wrists behind your back, and you were hoisted up... which would be painful beyond belief. The clever part about it, was that whenever someone was tortured in this manner, the cells around were filled with people who had committed like crimes, who could hear the screams and sobbing confessions of the person being tortured. This led to those waiting to confess, so in 15 minutes torture of one person, the Inquisitors could end up with 30 confessions. Not bad for a short night's work!

The whole thing is fascinating, and I could write pages on all of the interesting tidbits we learnt on that tour, all of the political workings of the time, but you'll just have to come and do the tour for yourselves one day. Venetians were very clever, efficient, and their government worked perfectly for 1,000 years, because of the way they ran everything. Until Napoleon came along, anyway.


Again, photos aren't allowed in most places, and I found out the reason for that - at least as it was for the Doge's palace - they used to allow photography but with no flashes, and of course, 80% of people used their flash anyway. So as a result, they had to ban it totally.

Then, as I mentioned earlier, it was the wonderful gnocchi for lunch, which I found in a little street, I think I was in Rialto at the time. The only way to really see Venice is to throw the map away, and wonder aimlessly. There are many signs on the walls back to the main bridges and piazzas, so you can easily reorient yourself when you need to, but you can't see Venice with a map. Even if you wanted to. So many of the smaller streets aren't named on the maps, or the streets are signed anyway. It's a complete maze.

There are, of course, gondolas everywhere, and you can hear them from either the signing that often accompanies them, or the "Gondola!" shouts. The Gondoliers themselves are a bit of a disappointment - only about half wear the striped tops, hat and neckerchief, and most of them are fat, old, balding men. I think they need to revisit the job description.

I visited the I Frari and saw Titian's Madonna of the Assumption, then wondered through the streets, looking in all of the wonderful shops. I couldn't leave Venice without a mask (or two) and amongst the hundreds of shops, one pulled me in. I discovered why when I went in - the masks are hand painted by the show owner himself, and so they didn't have that mass produced look of most of the others. You really need to look around in Venice, and trust to your instincts - a lot of it is just mass produced now, but if you really take the time to look, you'll find the items that are more individual. The masks in this shop were also really well priced - getting something hugely inferior back home would have cost me at least four times as much - I know, I've looked.

Glass seems to be different - you definitely need to pay more for better quality. Not all of it is Venetian glass, but it's all well signed generally, whether it's Venetian or imported. But even the local stuff varies greatly - and you do need to pay more if you want something decent. It's still not expensive, but more than some of the again mass produced stores on the tourist strips. It's well worth the difference though. You can get anything you can image - from glasses to plates and bowls, jewellery, general trinkets... some tacky of course, but so many beautiful things too.

This is my last night in Venice. Tomorrow I'll spend the morning and some of the afternoon, before heading off to Milan, my last stop in Europe.






Maranello

And I thought there were a lot of Ferraris in Monaco.


I was happy to say goodbye to Florence - there was probably more I could have seen in the city, but I'm a little over basilicas, and most definitely over the car hostile streets. I just want to say that driving here generally isn't difficult, but the issue I've had is that I booked my hotels, based on location, THEN decided to hire a car and drive - if I'd made the decision on the car before booking hotels, then I would have been able to pick locations that are car friendly, as well as foot friendly. 

I spent the afternoon in Maranello, on the way to Venice. The area is pretty, but nothing really in itself - the only real attraction of Maranello is of course Ferrari. The whole town is Ferrari. Apartment blocks are painted red - even the flowers on the street are red. And knowing Ferrari, that's no coincidence.
Trophy Wall
I visited Galleria Ferrari, which is full of new and old street and racing cars. The Hall of Victory has a handful of Championship winning cars in there, including Michael Schumacher's and, more importantly, one of Kimi's F2007s. It also has Flippi's F2008, but you can take or leave that one.


Hall of Victory
I was happy to see that around the Galleria in general, Kimi is just as well represented as Schumacher, maybe even moreso!


The entry fee is a little exorbitant for what it is, but the Galleria is still a must see for any Ferrari fan. The factory isn't much to see itself from the outside. Ahh, if only I knew someone who owns a Ferrari and could get a tour... oh, wait... :p
Fiorano Test Track
Spa 2009 Constructor's Trophy has pride of place in the Hall of Victory
The Fiorano test track is right there too, and today they were testing a road car and another formula car - and the sound!!! It fills the entire town. That was when you truly knew you were in Ferrari land.


Kimi's F2007
If you head towards the entry of the track, on Via Gilles Villeneuve, turn left at the last side street before the (heavily guarded) entrance, there is a spot in the fence you can peer through and see the back end of the track. I found that spot just as they were taking the road car off, so I'm not sure what it was, other than that it was black.


Kimi's 2007 Helmet


I visited the Ferrari Store across the road from the Factory, which was small and running low on stock, so I'll wait until Milano to get anything - hoping the stores there are bigger (if all else fails, there is always Monza). There are a few monuments and such around the town, but I didn't bother with those. It was getting late, and I had to head to Venice.
Like I said - everything in the town is red!
Venice - wow. Another place that you really do just have to see, at least once in your life. I parked my car at the edge of the city, and caught the Vaporetto to Piazza San Marco, where my hotel is. The Piazza is surrounded with the Palazzo Ducale, San Marco Basilica and other buildings I've yet to discover. The Piazza is just stunning. It was about 7pm when I got in, so I haven't explored yet. I can't wait until I start tomorrow! The (very slow) waterbus trip up the Grand Canal was wonderful. It's really odd seeing buildings sitting in water, and doors literally opening into the Canal.

I love my hotel. I was greeted by name when I walked in, had my bags taken up to my room for me... the downside, as there always is one, is that it doesn't have wireless, so I'm not sure when I'll even be able to post this up. The concierge said something about internet access in the foyer, and I'm guessing you need... a cord. I know, I know. Positively archaic.

I had dinner in one of its restaurants. After all of the pasta and pizza, I had a craving for red meat, so I ordered a veal steak. Disappointing, because it was a very thin steak - the type you bash for a steak sandwich - less than 1cm thick, and well and truly dead. Good if you like your cow dead I suppose, but I like mine to moo a little. With that I ordered rosemary potatoes, which were delicious. Dessert was ricotta cheese cake (YUM) and being extra indulgent after the disappointing steak, hot chocolate with whipped cream. And more good white wine. I don't know if I mentioned this before, but both here and in France, there is no such thing as ordering a glass of wine. You either get a whole bottle, or it come in measurements, in carafes. Usually it's 25cl, 37.5cl (more commonly the smallest) or 75cl. No, I have no idea what a cl i s, but 37.5 is probably two glasses? Prices of wine are generally quite good, as are the wines themselves.

Across the lane were a couple of little shops selling, of course, glass and masks. So many beautiful things, and good prices too. I can feel some serious shopping coming on tomorrow!

I can't wait to explore Venice over the next two days, and wish now that I had more than two nights here. But Monza awaits later this week! Vroom vroom!



ps - I think I'm going to have to go on a diet of water and lettuce when I get home. I think just inhaling the food puts on a few pounds.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Uffizi, Pisa & Volterra

Bugger the Corniches.  Just drive to Volterra.

The roads leading to the town, from any direction, are so much fun.  So long as you aren't stuck behind some idiot doing 40k/h in a 90k/h zone for half an hour.

View of Volterra - not my photo

This morning started early, so I could get to the Gallery Uffizi before it opened, since I didn't book a ticket.  Of course, on the very short walk there, I made a wrong turn, so my 10 minute walk turned into a 30 minute one.  But anyway, despite warnings of having to stand in line for half the day, I got into the gallery within an hour.  They only let unbooked people in every 20 minutes, and apparently only about 30 at a time, but it seemed they were being generous today. 

Any important artwork that's not in the Louvre, is at Uffizi, IMO.  Most importantly, there are rooms dedicated each to Leonardo and Botticelli.  And, even better, my two favourite paintings ever, Botticelli's The Birth of Venus and Primavera are here.  Along with the painting of Eleonora di Toledo (of which there are two versions).  There are also masses of Roman and Greek statues as well. The building itself is something to see.  Unfortunately, no photos allowed here, either. 

Then it was off to Europcar down the street to get a GPS - and after lining up for half an hour, found out they didn't have any there either.  So two taxi rides to the airport and 44 euros later, I finally got one, so I could go to Pisa and Volterra.  Like I've said elsewhere, unless you want to waste time, money and have much stress, don't use Europcar.  Under any circumstances.  I think ruining your holiday and providing as rude and terrible service as possible must be in their company statement or something.



The area of and around Pisa is really pretty, and around Volterra it's absolutely breathtaking.  The views from Volterra itself over the countryside alone make the drive up there worth it.  The sight of Volterra perched on top of the hill on the way up is beautiful - but unfortunately, there are few places to stop and take photos!



I stopped in Pisa for only 1 1/2 hours to see the tower area.  Other than the lean, obviously, the other main thing that struck me about the Tower is how small it is.  It really looks like it's a lot taller in photos!  Taking photos of it is funny too, because without realising, you tend to find yourself turning your camera to centre the Tower in the photo, so it's not leaning at all.  The whole area around the Tower is worth seeing.  The Tower itself, is just weird to look at.  It's so wrong.

Handily, 100m from the Tower (as advertised) is a McDonalds, so I was able to continue my very important investigation into the differences between the stores around the world.  (The burgers are called the same, so I really think they should call fries, fries).  And I needed to keep moving as I was on a tight schedule, already stuffed around by Europcar, and McD's is just so handy.

View from Volterra's walls

Then it was a lovely drive through the countryside to Volterra.  It's fun and easy to drive to, and the city is ringed with free car parks (within the walls is a restricted traffic area, and you wouldn't want to drive in there anyway). The town is smaller than I thought.  When I got there, they were having some sort of event in the main piazza - involving much drum beating, trumpeting, costumes and flag waving/throwing.  I have absolulutely no idea what was going on, I only caught the tail end of it, but it sure was a spectacle! 

Flag twirling, drum beating, trumpet blowing competition
I think this team won.  If there was something to win.

The winning team???

There are ruins of a Roman theatre being excavated next to where I parked too.
Roman Ruins

There is also a castle.  The views from the city are stunning as well.

Castle
One of their main, traditional industries is alabaster, and there are so many different items you can buy in the gift shops.  I was saved by weight and exhorbitant postage costs, but I could have filled up my suitcase.  Everything from jewellery to vases, plates and bowls, candle sticks, trinket boxes, mortars and pestles... the list is endless.  And it was all (mainly) pretty things, not tacky or gaudy.  As I said, lucky the stuff is so heavy...

And no.  There is in fact, no fountain in the main square under the clock tower, and the square itself is rather small.  Because I know you were wondering. 
The actual city square
When I finally got back into Florence it was almost 10pm - after many deviations thanks to roadworks everywhere, blocking the direct route onto the motorway from Volterra - so I had a late dinner of spaghetti ragu at a restraunt next to my hotel.  I know I should try something different, but spaghetti ragu is just so good!!!  I need to try some filled pasta next.  Maybe...

Tomorrow it's on to Venice and the mosquitoes, but more importantly, a stop at Maranello for a few hours, on the way.  Better get my Ferrari gear out for the day!

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Tuscany

I really love food.

Today somehow became a really good food day, which was unexpected. 

I LOVE this hotel.  It's right in the heart of historical Florence, and you have breakfast out on a nice little terrace overlooking the... actually I'm not sure which piazza, but one nonetheless.  My ensuite bathroom is bigger than some of the rooms I've stayed in.  And a nice, properly temperatured shower... ahh, the small things...

Today I went on a Tuscany cycle tour, which has turned out to be one of the definite highlights of my entire trip.  Tuscany has got to be one of the most beautiful places on earth, and seeing it by bicycle has got to be the best way to go.  You need to be fit for it, but since I managed, not hugely fit.  I think it's been well over ten years since I last rode a bike, but you really do never forget - even though I was a big wobbly at first (I wasn't the only one, thank goodness!).  I have such a sore butt though, OMG. 

View of Tuscany, from Castle Tower
Anyway, the tour starts at about 10am, where they take you on a 40 minute drive up to a little town south-west of Florence, to start the ride, at Castello di Poppiano.  It's a really old castle in which still lives a Count and Countess, and it's also a winery and olive oil producer.  So we started with a tour of the winery, some wine and olive oil tasting, before we started riding.  The olive oil was SO good, as was the wine.  I've said before, I'm not a big red wine drinker, but I've yet to have a bad red, either in France or Italy.  They are SO much more palatable. 


Aging of the Fortified Wines
I can't even begin to say how good this room smelled.  These casks have been here for over 100 years (with different wines in them) and never get moved.

The ride was stunning, and a little strenuous at times.  The views were well worth it though, as was the lunch!  We stopped at... well I have no idea where, but it was a restaurant.  We started with salads, followed by a few pasta options - I had spaghetti ragu, and OMG.  It was the best pasta I've had in Italy, by far!!!  It was absolutely amazing.  Then it was gelato for dessert, and of course, we had red wine with our meal.

So after that huge and delicious lunch, were were expected to get back on our bikes and ride for another hour or so, and the hardest part of the ride too - a lot of uphill.  There was one really bad hill, but we had the option to sit in the van which followed us the whole way, for that.  Needless to say, I took that option.  Over half the people who opted to try the hill also had to be picked up along the way.

I'd definitely recommend doing a cycle tour if you come to Florence - it really is a great experience and, as I said, one of the highlights of my entire trip.  The one I went with was Tuscany Bike Tours.  There were ten of us or so, and all around the same age group.  We had an absolute blast.  The tour operators are Irish, and really made it a great, fun and sometimes hilarious day. 

View of the Castle
We were dropped back in Florence at about 5pm.  Not that I was hungry after that huge lunch, but I went to dinner a few doors down from my hotel in the Piazza Santa Maria Novella at a pizza place.  Now, anyone who knows me, knows I'm not the biggest pizza fan in the world, but you really can't compare the crap we get home with a real, Italian pizza.  It was SO good, and huge.  My only disappointment was that Italians don't seem to put pineapple on their pizzas, so I had to have my magheriti sans pineapple.  Boo hoo.

More good (white) wine, followed by an espresso and a yummy dessert, which consisted of puff pastry, copious amounts of cream, melted chocolate and icing sugar.  I feel thorougly sick.  But in a good way.  For the moment.

I really have no idea how Italians remain so thin.  I can not believe how they eat!

A few things I've noticed - Italians don't in fact eat spaghetti with a spoon.  They also don't dip bread in olive oil (or have butter), and Tuscans don't put salt in their bread, which makes it a little bland, but it has something to do with a salt tax years ago, and therefore cutting it out of their food because they were too tight to pay.  As I already knew, they don't have milky coffee after lunchtime, and as I found out tonight, they don't put pineapple on pizzas.  And they eat like there is no tomorrow.

They're a strange mob.

I totally understand the whole siesta thing now though.  After eating such huge lunches, it's definitely needed.

Grr

I'm still absolutely furious about the whole no GPS thing.  I need to have a good yell at someone about it, then I may feel better. 

So anyway, I phone the call centre today, and the guy there was helpful, so I couldn't scream at him.  Of course, being the weekend, all of the Europcar locations in Florence are shut (because apparently people don't holiday on the weekend, and therefore, don't need cars... riiiiiiiight) and the only one he could contact was the airport, who will hire me a GPS - and kindly charge me for the day I DIDN'T have one and wasted my time getting lost - of course, I have to now waste my time, and money, getting to the airport.

So.  Who can I abuse. 

Friday, September 3, 2010

Florence and the Morning from Hell

The reason I haven't mentioned pasta anywhere, is because I hadn't had any worth writing about yet!  The stuff I had in Rome was crap.

Tonight however, I found a nice little restaurant a few streets away from my hotel - I had pasta, and yes, it was very good.  You could definitely tell it was the fresh stuff.  The sauce wasn't so nice though - too salty, which ruined it a bit.  I shall continue sampling the pasta and report back!  Tuscany is known for roast meats, and I had pork, which was absolutely delicious!  I have to say too, I love the gelato here.  I didn't think that it would be better than what we get back home, because it's something fairly simple you'd think, but it is way better.  I've been having some almost every day!

I have no idea how Italians aren't all grossly obese - I can't believe the meals.  Lunch and dinner are meant to be two courses, and the pasta/risotto or whatever is just the first course.  But the serves are still reasonable.  I wondered why the waiter gave me a strange look in Rome when I only ordered spaghetti alla bolognese for dinner! 

Anyway, today went from really terrible to really good.  The day started with a cold shower in Rome thanks to the crap hotel, and I was glad to say goodbye to that place.  Until I got to the airport to pick up my hire car, to discover that, Europcar at Rome Airport does not have GPS for hire. 

Now, getting onto the highway from the airport and heading towards Florence in itself wasn't hard (althogh it's always nice having the GPS there to reassure you're headed in the right direction), but trying to figure out which of the several exits to get into Florence to take and then, the worst part, trying to drive across Florence when streets aren't well signposted, most are one way or blocked off (not marked on the only, not detailed street map I had) was an absolute, bloody nightmare.  So an hour was wasted driving aimlessly through Florence.  Maybe more, but I'd switched off by that point.  I think I also drove down restricted traffic streets, and may get some fines in the mail later on.

It was by sheer mistake that I found my hotel - I knew I was close so I pulled into a little car park where they park your car on lifts and fit about six cars and charge 5 euros per hour - thankfully the operator spoke English and directed me to my hotel and, as luck would have it, it was the exact parking service that does the valet service for my hotel.

I love my little Fiat Punto though, he was very good to me! 

Anyway, this afternoon was a nightmare.  I did request GPS with my car bookings!!!  If one of the Europcar outlets here won't hire me one, I may have to resort to buying one, because there is no way in hell I'm going through that again!  It was definitely one of those "I want to go home right now" moments. 

So I was ready to hate Florence at that point, and tempted to stay in my hotel sulking, but forced myself to go out and at least visit the Museum Accademia, to see Michaelangeo's David.  That thing is unbelievable - absolutely huge, and the detail is just amazing.  You can see the veins in his arms and legs, the dimple in his knees... it's worth coming to Florence to see that alone.  The rest of the gallery isn't thrilling, and doesn't have many major artists in there.  As with the Sistine Chapel, no photos were allowed, unfortunately.

Restaurants - the ones away from tourist squares at least - don't open for dinner until after 7pm, so I wandered around for an our or so after that.  This place is shopping heaven!  There are clothes, and shoes, and bags, and every other possible  store you could want, everywhere.  And I mean REAL shopping, designer shopping, as well as some good, middle of the road stores too.  I'm half tempted to stuff everything else and just spend my time shopping... if only I had a few more credit cards...

So tomorrow I'm doing a bike tour of Tuscany, which will be interesting, because I've not ridden a bike for years - but you never forget, right?  Right??

Then Sunday, I need to cram in Pisa, the Uffizi Gallery and hopefully Volterra... I was going to drive to the cities, but I'm not going to drive through Florence more than I have to, so I'm leaving my car until I have to leave Monday, and catch the train.  Which will be quicker in the case of Pisa at any rate, and no parking hassles. 

Mmm, now I really feel like a gelato.  Nom nom nom.